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Tools You Will Need: |
 You will need at least 1 (one) helper in order to install the roof system properly and safely. |
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| From the roof measure the length
of the roof along each side of the home (L-1,L-2). Then measure the width
of the home in at least four places along the home (W-1 through W-4). This
is important because these figures may vary and you need to be prepared.
Enter these figures in the diagram. Then select the longer length of the
two if they differ, and compute the average width from the four width measurements.
These figures will help you order and cut the insulation material. Decide the overhang you want (normally 2"-3" when using gutters, 4"-6" whn not using gutters) at the ends of the home and add double this number to the longer length. This gives you the Total Length. You need this figure to order the correct number of the one-foot-wide roof panels. If the total length is not on the exact foot you need to increase or decrease the overhang a few inches until it is. Now take the average width and add double the overhang. This total width is the length you will order for your roof panels. Now take the total width, add the total length and double this total for the perimiter. You will use this measurement to order enough trim and perimeter angle. |
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Step 1-Extending the vents: NOTE: The sealing (tar tape of all vents, three times, can not be stressed strongly enough! When applying tar tape to vents make sure all tape overlaps. If the hole around the vent is very large, it may be necessary to fit a piece of coil stock around the vent pipe to help reduce possible leaks and better secure vents. |
| Remove the old vent caps by taking out the
screws and discarding them. Scrape off the old sealant with your hammer
and chisel. The vent pipes should be at least 4 1/2" tall. If they
are not, cut the existing vent down to about 2" with a hacksaw, and
attach a PVC coupling with Ever Seal. The coupling should be down close
to the roof. You will attach an extension later. Cut short (about 5") lengths of tar tape with your utility knife, and tape all around the vent, sealing the gap between the vent and the roof, and taping over all screw holes. Use lots of tape and overlay where necessary. Repaeat these steps for each vent. |
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Step 2-Installation of Foam Insulation: Before any installation work is started, check the old roof entirely for possible existing leaks (small holes, rips in the seam of galvanized roofing, etc.). Now repair these areas with either caulk, tar tape, or pieces of aluminum coil stock. This is double insurance against future service calls for leaks. One additional pre-installation tip. If the old roof has "dips", or "pockets" in it, fill these areas with scrap foam insulation. This does two things. One, it helps eliminate "Roof Rumble". Two, it insures that when you apply the new insulation sheets, they will be resting on a more secure foundation. The foam insulation panels for your roof system come 12' and 14' long. If the average width of your home is less than 12', you need to trim to match the average width. Measure and mark the first and cut with a handsaw, using the end of another as a straightedge. The first you cut will be your pattern for all of the others. Measure the next against the first by having your helper hold the one even with the uncut one at his end; the edge will act as a saw guide at your end, while you cut the second. This way, you do not need to measure and mark the rest. Cut all of them this way and save the scraps. |
| NOTE: If roof is peaked, a ridge beam will be needed. The ridge beam will be secured to the center peak of the home using #10 x 1 non-corrosive H/H screws 12" on center. Do this on both sides of the ridge beam, the full length of the home. |  |
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If your average width happens to be slightly
greater than 12', you will not cut the panels, but will center them on the
roof. The 2" x 3" perimeter angle will still hold the panels in
place as long as they are less than 2" narrower than the roof. You should install panels three (3) at a time. have your helper pass three panels up to you from the ground. The panels will go across the home, side by side. Starting at the front of the home, lay down the first panel; line it up with the end of the home. Don't be hesitant to wlk on the panels. Have your helper kneel with you on one end of the first panel to hold it in place while you begin attaching it to the home frame along the side of the home with the perimeter angle. |
| The perimeter angle is applied with the long edge vertical (down the side of the home) and the short edge horizontal (hooked over the top of the insulation panel). Leave about a foot of perimiter angle protruding at the end of the home; this will support your overhang later. Screw the perimeter angle to the home frame through the long edge, with 1" #10 screws about 6" apart making sure screws are going into the wood of the frame. Finish three (3) panels, move to the other side of the home and repeat for the other ends of the panels, they should flex slightly due to the bow in the roof, so they will not be "sprung" between the perimeter angle on the other side. If they do not flex, you must shim under the panels, along the center of the roof, to create a flex. |  Click on image for larger view |
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For this, use the scraps you saved when cuttin the panels. |
| If, on the other hand, the roof is bowed too
much and the panels will not bend all the way down, you may need to score
the panels on top until they will lie on the roof (seal the score with foil
tape). Fasten down the first panel along the front of the home. Cut a strip of perimeter angle to fit between the protruding perimeter angle on each side of the home, and screw it into the home frame as you did along the sides. Seal the seams between each two (2) panels with foil tape, overlapping the tape ends onto the top of the perimeter angle. |
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Step 3-Installing the Aluminum Pans Check to see if home is out of square before you start installing the roof panels. This will allow you a chance to adjust your overhang so that it is uniform the full length and both ends. With your helper assisting at the other end of the pan, center the first pan across the front of the home. Make sure that it is square, i.e., that it overhangs the proper amount and that the overhang measures the same on each side and at each end of the front. Have your helper measure and hold one end while you measure and hold the other. Install with the outer (larger) snaplock toward the front of the home. Screw the pan down onto the top of the perimeter angle every 3" with 1/2" #8 sheet metal screws. |
| Then, with tinsnips clip the outer snaplocks
(riser) to the bottom of the pan. This gives a desirable peaked appearance
to the roof. (Later you will do the same at the opposite end of the roof). Now, screw the first pan to the perimeter angle at the sides of the home, and trim off any excess perimeter angle protruding out from the front of the home. |
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The second pan is installed at the other
end of the home if your roof is not peaked, and at the peak if it is.
Again, be sure your overhang is equal on both sides of the home. Just
tack your second pan in place, as you may need to shift it slightly later
on. |
| Cut holes in the pan with tin snips when you
need to for the vents. When you have installed all the sections, go back
and tape all the vents again with tar tape. Then Everseal all the screws
and all the vents, covering the tape completely. Do not Everseal as you
go along, because you will get your drill cord in the sealand if you do--and
it will be a mess! If you have extended the vent pipes, you will probably be installing new vent covers. Attach them to the vent pipes with Everseal. If it has not been necessary to extend the vents, you can re-use the same vent covers you removed. Check the furnace stack carefully to be sure it is still firmly fastened in place. Be extremely careful when extending the furnace stack (in most cases a new one should be installed) that you do not pull the two pipes apart. If the vent pipe is too short, you will have to purchase a longe rpiece of the correct pipe or a longer roof stack assembly. Do not use pipe that is not manufactured for your furnace model. |
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Step 5-Installing the Trim There are two (2) types of trim brackets used for the trim to snap onto. The simple white ones are "Tab Brackets". Screw them across the end of the roof (at the front and rear of the home), into the outside of the snaplock, every three (3) feet, using 1/2" #8 screws in the two lower screw holes. The "Front Brackets" go on the long ends of the home. Place the aluminum arm against the side and end of the snaplock roof panel, keeping at least 1" out from the pan, and fastening with 1/2" #8 screws. (If you use the "string trick" again, you'll be sure of getting all the brackets straight. Install one "front bracket" at each end of the home, stretching a string between them for guidance.). Space the brackets three (3) feet apart (one every three pans). Snap on the trim. If trim is too long, cut with tin snips. |
| Double Wide Mobile Home Roofs If your home has a regular peaked roof as in a single wide, you will need to order one continuous roof pan, and split the riser in the center of the roof using riser clips and tar tape. After all the pans are installed, screw the ridge cap onto the risers the entire length of the roof. If the home has a ridge beam down the center of the roof, you will need to measure the height of it. If it is 2", you can treat it like a regular peaked roof and order continuous pans. If it is higher than 2", you will need to order boxed end pans. First, measure from the side of the box to the edge of the roof. Do the same on the opposite side. Now add Your overhang to that length. This is the overall length of the pans you need to order. Keep in mind you need to order boxed end roof pans. The boxed end is necessary because it will lie on top of the foam panels, then you will screw through the boxed end of the pan into the ridge beam with three (3) screws per pan. The last step after the pans have been installed is to screw down the ridge cap to the risers of the roof pans using #8 x 1/2" hex head screws. |
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| Installing Z-Bar The Z-Bar is to be used when you have an existing structure that is flush with the mobile home roof and does not allow you to screw the perimeter angle to the side of the home. Also in some areas, interior fastening with Z-Bars is required for roof pan spans. |
© 2001 WIB Group, Laurel Computer Systems Inc.
